• Hats advert, May 1918.

From our own correspondent: In this, our final edition for 1917, a brief review of the course of the chief local industry for the current year will be appropriate. Although the country has been involved in war of unprecedented proportions, the ladies' hat trade has persisted with unabated energy.

The spending power of the community has indicated an expansive tendency, as the average price of hats is several times greater than in pre-war periods. Then there were eight or ten to a sovereign, now there are frequently only two, and wholesale buyers have no hesitation in ordering these expensive goods.

But a serious question arises from this situation. Is the country not only spending its legitimate income, but also its capital? If so, with the cessation of hostilities there will be a period of depression, for which it would be expedient that every section of the community should prepare.

Luton has been described as the busy little town in Bedfordshire, and it certainly maintains its reputation. The crowds of operatives that enliven the streets at certain hours of the day suggest this, and on Saturday evenings the numbers that perambulate the leading thoroughfares present a noteworthy feature.

The depletion of straw operatives by munition factories has caused an increase in the earning powers of those engaged in the hate trade, and in many cases work formerly done by men is successfully accomplished by women. As they show themselves equal to the situation, they should earn an equal amount.

The leading note of the current period is preparation for the coming season. Amongst the essential points of the situation is a cl;ear idea of the trend of fashion. The military note appears to predominate, at least in the crowns of hats, but brims show great variations. Here again the leading idea is simplicity of outline, and with elaborate crowns this follows in natural course.

There was some talk of temporarily suppressing the straw hat trade as a non-essential industry. Did those gentlemen in office suggests any means by which those who live by the straw trade were to exist without it? There are thousands depending on it, and to suppress it would cause a disaster too serious to contemplate.

Apart from the effect on the community, how many ladies in the country would be willing to wear a shabby winter hat in the brilliant sunshine of summer? The gentlemen who spoke in this way did not consult the ladies of their acquaintance, or they would have been better informed.

Another point arises. Presumably this industry, equally with others, has members of the community who pay income tax. Close the industry and you paralyse the power to pay this tax, and the income of the country would be proportionately diminished. We understand that the Luton Chamber of Commerce rightly exercised it influence to prevent so suicidal a policy.

If one may judge by the number of shipping cases that are despatched from Luton, the export trade is healthy. This is the period of the year when such orders are most welcome, and one notices with interest that, with very few exceptions, they are destined for one or other of the numerous British Colonies. There is always the menace of submarine warfare, but evidently the great majority reach their destination, as otherwise the trade would cease to be remunerative.

There is, unfortunately, a shortage of raw materials, but whether this is due to the non-arrival of Oriental consignments or to the congestion at the docks is uncertain. The latter is the more probable. Will those in authority show themselves equal to the situation?

[Beds & Herts Saturday Telegraph: December 29th, 1917]